Trips

Brian’s birthday Nov 29 → Sue’s birthday Dec 7

Boston & the Maine coast, birthday to birthday

Sun, Nov 29 – Mon, Dec 7Brian & Sue3 ways to do it
View down Acorn Street, Beacon Hill, Boston MA.
View down Acorn Street, Beacon Hill, Boston MA. · Photo: R Boed, CC BY 2.0

Nine days from Willow Grove and Verona to Boston’s holiday lights, Maine lighthouses and lobster, and a grand hotel under snowy mountains. There are three ways to do it: the balanced classic, a cabins-and-value version, and a dress-up splurge. Each is priced night by night.

Prices and opening days checked Oct 10. Hotel rates are per night for two, as Google Hotels or the hotel showed them for these exact nights; they move, so book the ones you like soon.

Pick a plan

Plan A

The classic: Boston lights & the Maine coast

Four Boston nights for the tree lightings, then the Christmas Prelude, Portland and a grand hotel.

At a glance

  1. Sun, Nov 29Stockbridge · Brian’s birthdayThe Red Lion Inn$180
  2. Mon, Nov 30Boston & CambridgeFairmont Copley Plaza$356
  3. Tue, Dec 1Boston & CambridgeFairmont Copley Plaza$356
  4. Wed, Dec 2Boston & CambridgeFairmont Copley Plaza$356
  5. Thu, Dec 3Boston & CambridgeFairmont Copley Plaza$356
  6. Fri, Dec 4KennebunkportCape Arundel Inn$291
  7. Sat, Dec 5PortlandThe Press Hotel$368
  8. Sun, Dec 6White MountainsOmni Mount Washington Resort$328
  9. Mon, Dec 7Quechee & Woodstock · Sue’s birthdayHome

Why this one

  • Both Boston tree lightings (Copley on Mon, the Common on Thu)
  • Kennebunkport on the Prelude’s tree-lighting night (Fri)
  • Gardens Aglow, Portland Head Light and Maine lobster every day in Maine
  • A grand-hotel night under Mount Washington before Sue’s birthday

Trade-offs

  • Hotels every night. Swap in the Black Mountain cabin on Sun if the weather is kind
  • Day 1 and Day 9 are long driving days (about 6½ hours each)
The Red Lion Inn's long front porch on Main Street, StockbridgeDay 1

Sun, Nov 29Brian’s birthday

Happy birthday, Brian: north to the Berkshires

Brian leaves Willow Grove by 7:00 am

  • Willow Grove, PA → Verona, NY · 4 hr 15 min · 255 mi · via I-476 & I-81
  • Verona, NY → Rensselaer, NY · 1 hr 50 min · 115 mi · via I-90 · Burmese lunch
  • Rensselaer, NY → Stockbridge, MA · 50 min · 40 mi

6 hr 55 min behind the wheel · 410 mi · Directions

  1. 7:00 amBrian heads north. Coffee in Clarks Summit is the halfway point.
  2. 11:15 amPick up Sue in Verona. Grab Burmese snacks for the car at Min Htet Win or Golden Burma in Utica if there’s time. Burmese
  3. 1:15 pmLate lunch at Shwe Burmese, just off I-90 at Albany. Burmese
  4. 3:45 pmCheck in at the Red Lion Inn. Walk Main Street as the lights come on (sunset 4:20). Photo spotHoliday lights
  5. 6:30 pmBrian’s birthday dinner by candlelight at the Old Inn on the Green (25 min). Dress upBirthday

Eat

Lunch~$20/person

Shwe Burmese

Burmese · 4.7

Real Burmese cooking five minutes off I-90 at Albany, right on the way. Family-run and cooked to order.

Order: Tea leaf salad (lahpet thoke), Burmese stir-fried noodles, chicken curry

Tue–Sun 11–9 (closed Mon)

Burmese
Dinner~$125/person

The Old Inn on the Green

Seasonal New American, prix fixe · 4.7

A 1760 stagecoach inn lit entirely by candles, with a fireplace in every room. Brian’s birthday dinner.

Dressy; candlelight

Wed–Sun 5:30–9

Dress upBirthdayPhoto spotReserve

Sleep · our pick + 2 alternatives

The Red Lion Inn's long front porch on Main Street, StockbridgeOur pick · sweet spot

Inn · 4.3 (2,038)

The Red Lion Inn

A rambling 1773 inn with a long rocking-chair porch on Main Street, antiques in every room, and a tavern downstairs.

  • Walk out the door onto Rockwell’s Main Street
  • Tavern and dining room on site
  • Free parking
  • Some historic rooms are small; ask for the main building
  • Stockbridge bans overnight street parking Nov 15–Mar 15; use the inn’s lot

$180 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, official rate for Sun Nov 29, Oct 10.

value

Hotel

Hotel on North

A boutique hotel in a restored 1880s building in downtown Pittsfield, with exposed brick and tin ceilings.

  • Design-forward and good value
  • Restaurant and bar downstairs
  • 20 minutes north of Stockbridge
  • Busy dates can carry a 2-night minimum

$127 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, official rate for Sun Nov 29, Oct 10.

camping

Cabin

Mohawk Trail State Forest log cabin

A CCC-era log cabin in a river gorge on the Mohawk Trail, with a wood stove, electricity and a heated bathhouse with hot showers.

  • Wood stove and electric light
  • Heated bathhouse, hot showers
  • Real cabin camping, but warm
  • Bring sleeping bags, pads, a cook kit and towels
  • Firewood is sold on site ($7, card only); outside wood is banned
  • Winter nights are Thu–Mon only; no pets

$174 / night

Check dates

$170 non-resident + $4 fee; large cabins C01, C02, C07 were open. ReserveAmerica live check for Sun Nov 29, Oct 10.

Tower Hill Botanic Garden, Boylston, Massachusetts, USA.Day 2

Mon, Nov 30

Glasshouse flowers, then Boston’s first tree

Leave Stockbridge by 10:00 am

  • Stockbridge, MA → Boylston, MA · 1 hr 50 min · 100 mi · via Mass Pike
  • Boylston, MA → Boston, MA · 55 min · 45 mi

2 hr 45 min behind the wheel · 145 mi · Directions

  1. 12:00 pmNew England Botanic Garden: the Orangerie and Limonaia are full of winter flowers and citrus. Lunch at the garden café. FlowersPhoto spot
  2. 3:30 pmCheck in at the Fairmont Copley Plaza.
  3. 5:00 pmCopley Square tree lighting and the square’s grand reopening, right outside the hotel. Frame the tree against Trinity Church at blue hour. Holiday lightsTreesPhoto spot
  4. 7:00 pmDinner at Sorellina, around the corner. Dress up

Eat

Dinner~$140/person

Sorellina

Modern Italian · 4.6

A sleek black-and-white room steps from the Copley tree. A glamorous first night in the city.

Smart casual to business

Nightly from 5:30

Dress upReserve

Sleep · our pick + 2 alternatives

Our pick · sweet spot

Hotel

Fairmont Copley Plaza

A gilded 1912 grand hotel on Copley Square with a mirrored lobby, a famous holiday tree and the Oak Long Bar. The Copley tree lighting is right outside the door.

  • Copley Square tree lighting on the doorstep (Mon Nov 30)
  • Walk to Newbury St, the library and Back Bay
  • Classic Boston glamour for photos
  • Parking: valet $74 a night, or $42–43 in the Back Bay or Copley Place garages
  • Some rates add a $35/day “urban experience” fee (with a $45 dining credit)

$356 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, official rate, average of Nov 30–Dec 3, Oct 10.

The Newbury’s Newbury Street side, facing the Public Gardensplurge

Hotel

The Newbury Boston

Boston’s most beautiful hotel: interiors full of flowers and art, Public Garden views, and Contessa’s glass-roofed rooftop restaurant.

  • Contessa rooftop upstairs
  • Faces the Public Garden and Newbury St
  • Holiday tea in the Street Bar
  • Valet $85 a night, plus a $45/night “residential fee”

$548 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, official rate, average of Nov 30–Dec 3, Oct 10.

value

Hotel

citizenM Boston North Station

Compact, design-y rooms (Vitra furniture, mood lighting) and a lounge that feels like a stylish living room. A 10-minute walk to the North End.

  • Best design for the price
  • Walk to the North End and Beacon Hill
  • Rooftop bar
  • Rooms are small; the bed fills the window wall
  • No hotel parking: book a nearby garage on SpotHero (about $40)

$185 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, official rate, average of Nov 30–Dec 3, Oct 10.

Glass wood sorrel blossoms and roots, Harvard's Glass FlowersDay 3

Tue, Dec 1

Glass flowers, Burmese lunch and Beacon Hill

  1. 9:30 amGlass Flowers at the Harvard Museum of Natural History, then a walk through Harvard Yard. FlowersDesign
  2. 12:30 pmLunch at Yoma, Boston’s only Burmese restaurant (10 min by car or Uber). Burmese
  3. 2:30 pmBeacon Hill: Acorn Street, the wreaths on Louisburg Square, and the antique shops on Charles Street. Photo spot
  4. 4:15 pmBlue hour in the Public Garden and on the Common as the lamps come on. Photo spotHoliday lights
  5. 6:00 pmNorth End: a hot lobster roll at Neptune (walk-in, so go early), then cannoli and espresso. Lobster
  6. The Gardner and the MFA are closed on Tuesdays, which is why they’re on other days.

Eat

Lunch~$25/person

Yoma Burmese

Burmese · 4.7

The only Burmese restaurant in greater Boston. Small, pink-walled and homestyle, and still going strong.

Order: Mohinga, tea leaf salad, ohn no khao swè (coconut noodle soup), rainbow noodles

Daily 12–9

Burmese
Dinner~$75/person

Neptune Oyster

Seafood · 4.3

Boston’s most famous lobster roll, hot with butter. Get there early; it’s tiny.

Order: Hot buttered lobster roll, oysters

Daily from 11:30; walk-in only

Lobster
Treat~$12/person

Modern Pastry & Caffè Vittoria

Italian pastry & espresso

Cannoli filled to order, then espresso under the tin ceilings at Vittoria next door.

Daily to 11 pm

Photo spot

Sleep

Our pick · sweet spot

Hotel

Fairmont Copley Plaza

A gilded 1912 grand hotel on Copley Square with a mirrored lobby, a famous holiday tree and the Oak Long Bar. The Copley tree lighting is right outside the door.

  • Copley Square tree lighting on the doorstep (Mon Nov 30)
  • Walk to Newbury St, the library and Back Bay
  • Classic Boston glamour for photos
  • Parking: valet $74 a night, or $42–43 in the Back Bay or Copley Place garages
  • Some rates add a $35/day “urban experience” fee (with a $45 dining credit)

$356 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, official rate, average of Nov 30–Dec 3, Oct 10.

Arches and greenery in the Gardner Museum's Venetian courtyardDay 4

Wed, Dec 2

A courtyard in bloom and a glass-roofed dinner

  1. 11:00 amIsabella Stewart Gardner Museum at opening: the courtyard’s Holiday Garden of poinsettias, amaryllis and orchids. Shoot it from the upper loggia. FlowersDesignPhoto spot
  2. 2:30 pmBoston Public Library: Bates Hall and the Sargent murals (free). DesignPhoto spot
  3. 3:30 pmNewbury Street windows and shops at dusk. Holiday lights
  4. 7:30 pmDress up for Contessa, the glass-roofed rooftop over the Public Garden. Dress upFlowersPhoto spot

Eat

Dinner~$130/person

Contessa

Northern Italian · 4.1

A greenhouse-style glass rooftop over the Public Garden, gilded and full of flowers. The most photogenic room in Boston.

Order: Lobster pasta

Dress up; it’s that room

Nightly from 5

Dress upFlowersPhoto spotLobsterReserve

Sleep

Our pick · sweet spot

Hotel

Fairmont Copley Plaza

A gilded 1912 grand hotel on Copley Square with a mirrored lobby, a famous holiday tree and the Oak Long Bar. The Copley tree lighting is right outside the door.

  • Copley Square tree lighting on the doorstep (Mon Nov 30)
  • Walk to Newbury St, the library and Back Bay
  • Classic Boston glamour for photos
  • Parking: valet $74 a night, or $42–43 in the Back Bay or Copley Place garages
  • Some rates add a $35/day “urban experience” fee (with a $45 dining credit)

$356 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, official rate, average of Nov 30–Dec 3, Oct 10.

Back Bay brownstones and the Hancock tower mirrored in the Charles River lagoonDay 5

Thu, Dec 3

Boston’s big night: the Common tree lighting

  1. 10:00 amMuseum of Fine Arts: Asian galleries (including Myanmar), textiles and fashion. Design
  2. 1:00 pmLobster roll and oysters at Row 34 in Fort Point. Lobster
  3. 5:15 pmGet a spot at the Boston Common tree lighting (6 pm), then walk the Commonwealth Avenue lights (on about 8:15). Holiday lightsTreesPhoto spot
  4. 7:30 pmTwin Maine lobster at Ostra, five minutes from the Common. Or swap in Holiday Pops opening night at Symphony Hall. Dress upLobster

Eat

Lunch~$60/person

Row 34

Oyster bar · 4.6

A buzzy Fort Point oyster hall with a great lobster roll. Takes reservations.

Order: Lobster roll (warm or cold), raw bar

Mon–Sat 11:30–10, Sun to 9

Lobster
Dinner~$175/person

Ostra

Mediterranean seafood · 4.7

A serene white-and-silver room with a piano lounge, five minutes from the Common’s tree. The dress-up lobster dinner in Boston.

Order: Broiled twin Maine lobster ($135), ricotta gnocchetti with lobster and truffle

Polished; jacket fits

Sun–Thu 5:30–8 last seating

Dress upLobsterReserve

Sleep

Our pick · sweet spot

Hotel

Fairmont Copley Plaza

A gilded 1912 grand hotel on Copley Square with a mirrored lobby, a famous holiday tree and the Oak Long Bar. The Copley tree lighting is right outside the door.

  • Copley Square tree lighting on the doorstep (Mon Nov 30)
  • Walk to Newbury St, the library and Back Bay
  • Classic Boston glamour for photos
  • Parking: valet $74 a night, or $42–43 in the Back Bay or Copley Place garages
  • Some rates add a $35/day “urban experience” fee (with a $45 dining credit)

$356 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, official rate, average of Nov 30–Dec 3, Oct 10.

Goat Island Light off Cape PorpoiseDay 6

Fri, Dec 4

Lighthouses up the coast to the Christmas Prelude

Leave Boston by 9:30 am

  • Boston, MA → York, ME · 1 hr 15 min · 70 mi · via I-95 · Nubble Light
  • York, ME → Ogunquit, ME · 15 min · 7 mi
  • Ogunquit, ME → Kennebunkport, ME · 25 min · 12 mi

1 hr 55 min behind the wheel · 89 mi · Directions

  1. 11:00 amNubble Lighthouse, outlined in holiday lights. Sue’s first Maine lighthouse. Photo spotHoliday lights
  2. 12:00 pmWalk the Marginal Way cliff path to Perkins Cove, with coffee and a pastry from Bread & Roses. Photo spotOutdoors
  3. 2:30 pmCheck in at Cape Arundel Inn. Watch the sunset over Walker’s Point (4:07) from the inn. Photo spot
  4. 5:30 pmCaroling, then the Dock Square tree lighting at 6. Holiday lightsTrees
  5. 7:00 pmThe lobster-trap tree lights up at Cape Porpoise pier. Holiday lightsLobsterPhoto spot
  6. 7:45 pmDinner at Hurricane on Dock Square. Or eat at your own inn: Ocean at Cape Arundel Inn has a wall of windows on the Atlantic, nightly 5–9, with a prix fixe from $105. Lobster

Eat

Dinner~$85/person

Hurricane

Seafood & New American

Right on Dock Square, so you walk straight in from the tree lighting. Lobster dishes and harbor views.

Smart casual

Sun–Thu 4–9, Fri–Sat 4–10 (open through Dec 13)

Lobster

Sleep · our pick + 2 alternatives

Our pick · sweet spot

Inn

Cape Arundel Inn

A shingled 1890s inn on Ocean Avenue where every room looks at the open Atlantic and Walker’s Point.

  • Ocean views from the room
  • Prelude shuttle to Dock Square on Fridays and Saturdays
  • Prelude stays need a 50% deposit and are non-refundable inside 30 days

$291 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, official rate (sample night Thu Dec 3), Oct 10.

splurge

Inn

White Barn Inn

An Auberge inn in a restored barn and farmhouse, with candlelit fine dining. Romantic at Christmas.

  • The Restaurant at White Barn Inn on site (daily 5:30–9)
  • Fireside Living Room bar
  • Prelude dinner with carolers
  • $40/night resort fee (includes valet); adults 21+
  • Online booking was down; call 207-967-2321

$609 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, official rate (sample night Thu Dec 3), Oct 10.

value

Resort

Nonantum Resort

A big Victorian resort on the river at the mouth of the harbor. Santa arrives here by lobster boat on Sunday of Prelude weekend.

  • Walk to Dock Square
  • River and harbor views

$239 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, lowest rate seen (sample night Thu Dec 3), Oct 10.

Portland Head Light on the rocks of Cape ElizabethDay 7

Sat, Dec 5

Portland Head Light, lobster rolls and a glowing garden

Leave Kennebunkport by 10:00 am

  • Kennebunkport, ME → Cape Elizabeth, ME · 40 min · 30 mi · Portland Head Light
  • Cape Elizabeth, ME → Portland, ME · 15 min · 5 mi
  • Portland, ME → Boothbay, ME · 1 hr 15 min · 58 mi · Gardens Aglow
  • Boothbay, ME → Portland, ME · 1 hr 15 min · 58 mi

3 hr 25 min behind the wheel · 151 mi · Directions

  1. 8:30 amCrêpes and macarons at Mornings in Paris. Photo spot
  2. 11:00 amPortland Head Light at Fort Williams Park. Walk the cliff path for the classic angle. Photo spotOutdoors
  3. 12:30 pmBrown-butter lobster roll at Eventide, then the Old Port shops. Check in at the Press Hotel. Lobster
  4. 4:00 pmGardens Aglow at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, right at opening while the sky is still blue. Holiday lightsFlowersPhoto spot
  5. 7:45 pmLobster diavolo for two at Street & Co. on cobblestone Wharf Street. LobsterDress up

Eat

Breakfast~$15/person

Mornings in Paris

Café, crêpes, macarons

Crêpes and a rainbow case of macarons. A pretty breakfast flat-lay.

Daily 7–4

Photo spot
Lunch~$55/person

Eventide Oyster Co.

Oyster bar · 4.5

The brown-butter lobster roll on a steamed bun is Portland’s signature bite.

Order: Brown butter lobster roll, local oysters

Daily 11–11

LobsterReserve
Dinner~$105/person

Street & Co.

Mediterranean seafood · 4.6

An old-brick room on a cobblestone lane. The lobster diavolo for two arrives in its pan, Portland’s classic romantic dish.

Order: Lobster diavolo for two ($95)

Smart casual; candlelit

Nightly from 4:30

LobsterDress upReserve

Sleep · our pick + 2 alternatives

Our pick · sweet spot

Hotel

The Press Hotel

The old Portland Press Herald newspaper building turned design hotel: typewriter art, ink-blue walls and a gallery of local artists.

  • Most design-forward hotel in Maine
  • Walk to the Old Port
  • UNION restaurant downstairs
  • Valet $50 a night; adults 21+

$368 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, official rate, average of Dec 4–6, Oct 10.

value

Hotel

The Francis

An 1881 mansion in the West End made into a boutique hotel with a spa. Pretty, quiet rooms.

  • Good value with character
  • Free parking when booked direct
  • A 15-minute walk to the Old Port
  • $30/night hotel fee

$196 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, official rate, average of Dec 4–6, Oct 10.

Crescent Beach, right behind Inn by the Seasplurge

Resort

Inn by the Sea

An oceanfront resort on Crescent Beach in Cape Elizabeth, with gardens, a spa and fireplaces.

  • Beach out the back door
  • 10 minutes to Portland Head Light
  • Sea Glass restaurant on site
  • 15 minutes from downtown Portland
  • Its winter offer needs 2 nights; 6% resort fee; free parking

$296 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, official rate, average of Dec 4–6, Oct 10.

Ballroom, Mount Washington Hotel, Bretton Woods, NHDay 8

Sun, Dec 6

Into the snowy pines: the White Mountains

Leave Portland by 10:00 am

  • Portland, ME → North Conway, NH · 1 hr 30 min · 65 mi
  • North Conway, NH → Bretton Woods, NH · 50 min · 31 mi · via Crawford Notch (US-302)

2 hr 20 min behind the wheel · 96 mi · Directions

  1. 9:00 amMorning bun at Standard Baking, one last look at the harbor.
  2. 11:45 amKhao soi at Mountain Moose in North Conway. Burmese
  3. 1:00 pmDrive Crawford Notch slowly: frozen falls and snow-loaded spruce. Pull off at the Willey House site and Silver Cascade. TreesPhoto spot
  4. 2:30 pmCheck in at the Omni. Catch alpenglow on Mount Washington from the veranda around 4. Photo spot
  5. 6:30 pmDinner in the 1902 dining room under the chandeliers, then a nightcap in The Cave. Dress upHoliday lights

Eat

Lunch~$22/person

Mountain Moose Noodles

Southeast Asian noodles · 4.5

Khao soi and pho in North Conway, the closest thing to ohn no khao swè in the mountains.

Order: Khao soi

Daily, about 11–7

Burmese
Dinner~$115/person

1902 at the Omni Mount Washington

New England

An octagonal 1902 dining room with chandeliers and arched windows, inside a grand hotel dressed for Christmas.

Order: Lobster bisque, short rib, baked Alaska

Casual allowed; dressing up fits the room

Dinner daily 5:30–10; call 603-278-8864

Dress upPhoto spotHoliday lights

Sleep · our pick + 2 alternatives

A bend in the Kancamagus Highway through the White MountainsOur pick · sweet spot

Resort

Omni Mount Washington Resort

A white 1902 grand hotel under Mount Washington. The Great Hall tree is lit, and there is a speakeasy in the cellar.

  • 1902 dining room, the Princess Lounge and The Cave bar
  • Veranda view of the Presidential Range
  • Spa and outdoor heated pool
  • $45/night resort charge; self-parking $20
  • Mountain weather: carry a winter kit and allow extra time

$328 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, official rate for Sun Dec 6, Oct 10.

sweet spot

Inn

The Inn at Thorn Hill

An adults-only country inn in Jackson with a candlelit restaurant, Forty, and mountain views.

  • Romantic and quiet, adults only
  • Forty restaurant with tableside lobster bisque
  • Pianist in the lounge Fri–Sat

$213 / night

Check dates

Google Hotels, lowest rate seen for Sun Dec 6, Oct 10.

camping

Cabin

Black Mountain Cabin (White Mountain NF)

A 1930s CCC log cabin just below the summit of Black Mountain, facing Mount Washington. You hike in 1.4 miles at a moderate grade.

  • The best view of any bed on the trip
  • Wood stove, 8 bunks, composting toilet
  • Real winter cabin camping
  • Uninsulated and drafty: bring 0–15°F bags and pads
  • No water: carry it in
  • Hike in before 3:30 (sunset about 4:07)

$48 / night

Check dates

$40 + $8 reservation fee; book at least 4 days ahead. Recreation.gov, open Sun Dec 6, Oct 10.

Pine woods along the Quechee Gorge trailDay 9

Mon, Dec 7Sue’s birthday

Happy birthday, Sue: glassblowers, then home for dinner

Leave Bretton Woods by 9:00 am

  • Bretton Woods, NH → Quechee, VT · 1 hr 50 min · 90 mi · via I-93 & I-89
  • Quechee, VT → Verona, NY · 4 hr 5 min · 220 mi · via US-4, Rutland & I-90

5 hr 55 min behind the wheel · 310 mi · Directions

  1. 11:00 amWatch the glassblowers at Simon Pearce’s mill. Design
  2. 12:00 pmBirthday lunch at a window table over the falls, then a stop at the Quechee Gorge bridge. BirthdayPhoto spot
  3. 6:00 pmHome to Verona to change.
  4. 7:30 pmSue’s birthday dinner at Wildflowers, Turning Stone. Dress upBirthday
  5. Brian: stay over at Turning Stone (The Inn from about $79, The Lodge from about $145 on Google Hotels) and drive home Tuesday (4¼ hours).

Eat

Lunch~$45/person

Simon Pearce, Quechee

New American

A birthday lunch over the floodlit waterfall, eaten off handblown glass and pottery, with glassblowers working downstairs.

Order: Vermont cheddar soup

Lunch daily 11–2:30 (dinner Wed–Sun)

DesignPhoto spotBirthdayReserve
Dinner~$130/person

Wildflowers at Turning Stone

Contemporary fine dining · 4.7

Sue’s birthday dinner, ten minutes from home. Forbes Four-Star, intimate and away from the casino floor, with valet parking.

Order: Lamb tenderloin, crab chowder, chocolate bomb cake

Business casual or cocktail attire

Dinner Mon–Tue 5–10

Dress upBirthdayFlowersReserve

What Plan A costs

For two, with our picks for every night and every meal listed above. Swap in the alternatives to go up or down.

Lodging (8 nights)$2,591
Lodging taxes (about 12%)$311
Dinners, lunches and treats$2,668
Gas (1,201 mi at 28 mpg, $3.25/gal)$139
Tolls (E-ZPass)$35
Gardner, Glass Flowers, MFA, NEBG garden, Gardens Aglow (for two)$254
Boston parking, 4 nights (Copley garage, $43/night)$172
Breakfasts, coffee and snacks (est. $40/day)$360
Total$6,530

Per night that's about $816. Longest driving day: 6 hr 55 min.

Planned around Sue

Flowers, even in December

Outdoor gardens are asleep, so every plan goes where flowers still bloom indoors: the Gardner’s Holiday Garden courtyard (poinsettias, amaryllis, orchids), the New England Botanic Garden’s glasshouses, and Harvard’s Glass Flowers, 4,300 botanical models made of glass. Mistral and Contessa fill their rooms with arrangements too.

Burmese food on the road

Day 1 lunch is at Shwe Burmese near Albany, and Yoma in Boston is the only Burmese restaurant in New England’s big cities. Maine has none, so khao soi at Mountain Moose is the closest cousin to ohn no khao swè. Stock up on lahpet and snacks at Utica’s Burmese markets before you go.

Nights to dress up for

A candlelit 1760 inn for Brian’s birthday, Contessa’s glass rooftop, Ostra’s lobster, a grand-hotel dining room, and Wildflowers for Sue’s birthday. Pack a warm wrap or coat that works over an outfit: it will be 30–40°F after dark.

Timed for the light

The sun sets around 4:05–4:15 pm, the earliest of the year, so the days are short. Blue hour (about 4:15–4:45) is when the holiday lights come on, and the plans put Acorn Street, Nubble Light, Dock Square and Gardens Aglow right then.

For a designer’s eye

Isabella Gardner designed her museum room by room. Add the Boston Public Library’s Bates Hall, the Press Hotel in an old newspaper building, and glassblowers at Simon Pearce. Plan C adds the Newport mansions.

About “the trees”

The fall color is gone by late November. What you get is New England’s holiday trees: Boston’s tree from Nova Scotia, Kennebunkport’s lobster-trap tree, Gardens Aglow’s lit forests, and in the White Mountains, miles of snowy spruce and fir.

Where you'll be

Every stop across all plans, with what's actually open in early December.

The Red Lion Inn's long front porch on Main Street, Stockbridge
The Red Lion Inn's long front porch on Main Street, Stockbridge
The Red Lion Inn, a Stockbridge landmark since 1773
The Red Lion Inn, a Stockbridge landmark since 1773
Red Lion Inn - Stockbridge, Massachusetts, USA.
Red Lion Inn - Stockbridge, Massachusetts, USA.

Stockbridge, MA

Norman Rockwell’s Main Street, with a 1773 inn at the end of it.

Early Dec: 39° / 26°F · snow possible

A New England postcard town in the Berkshire hills. The Red Lion Inn’s porch faces the Main Street that Rockwell painted under snow, and it is a calm first night after a long drive. For Brian’s birthday dinner, the most romantic room in the Berkshires is 25 minutes south: a 1760 stagecoach inn lit only by candles.

  • Main Street at duskFree

    The inn, the shops and the church all lit up. This is the view from Rockwell’s “Stockbridge Main Street at Christmas.”

    Sunset about 4:20 pm

    Photo spotHoliday lightsFree
  • A candlelit 1760 inn with a fireplace in every room. Three-course prix fixe.

    Wed–Sun 5:30–9 (closed Mon–Tue)

    Dress upBirthday
  • The only Burmese restaurant in western Massachusetts, known for its tea leaf salad. It sits right at the Mass Pike exit.

    Thu–Tue 11–2:30, 4:30–9 (closed Wed)

    Burmese
Tower Hill Botanic Garden, Boylston, Massachusetts, USA.
Tower Hill Botanic Garden, Boylston, Massachusetts, USA.
Tower Hill Botanic Garden, Boylston, Massachusetts, USA.
Tower Hill Botanic Garden, Boylston, Massachusetts, USA.
Spring tulip border at the New England Botanic Garden at Tower Hill
Spring tulip border at the New England Botanic Garden at Tower Hill

New England Botanic Garden, MA

Glasshouses full of flowers in December, and a light show after dark.

Early Dec: 41° / 27°F

Tower Hill in Boylston sits right on the way to Boston. In December the Orangerie and Limonaia conservatories still hold blooming tropicals, citrus and camellias, which is rare in New England in winter. From 4 pm the grounds become “Night Lights.”

  • Orangerie & Limonaia conservatories$24 (2026 summer rate; check winter price)

    Glass houses with winter flowers and citrus, plus views over Wachusett Reservoir.

    Daily 10–5 (last entry 4:30)

    FlowersPhoto spotDesign
  • Night Lights$26 ($29 peak)

    Gardens and trees wrapped in lights, Nov 21, 2026 to Jan 3, 2027.

    Daily 4–10 pm

    Holiday lightsTreesPhoto spot
Back Bay brownstones and the Hancock tower mirrored in the Charles River lagoon
Back Bay brownstones and the Hancock tower mirrored in the Charles River lagoon
Arches and greenery in the Gardner Museum's Venetian courtyard
Arches and greenery in the Gardner Museum's Venetian courtyard
Glass wood sorrel blossoms and roots, Harvard's Glass Flowers
Glass wood sorrel blossoms and roots, Harvard's Glass Flowers

Boston & Cambridge, MA

Gaslit Beacon Hill, flower-filled museums and the city’s tree lightings.

Early Dec: 46° / 33°F · sunset 4:12 pm

Brick sidewalks, harbor lobster rolls and a museum built around a courtyard of flowers. This is the week Boston lights up: Copley Square’s tree on Mon Nov 30, then the big Boston Common tree and the Commonwealth Avenue lights on Thu Dec 3. Most of it is walkable, so park the car and leave it.

  • Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum$25 (timed tickets, book ahead)

    A Venetian palazzo built around a glass-roofed courtyard that is always in bloom. December brings the “Holiday Garden” with poinsettias, amaryllis, orchids and cyclamen. Isabella designed every room herself.

    Mon, Wed, Fri 11–5 · Thu 11–9 (free after 5) · Sat–Sun 10–5 · closed Tue

    FlowersDesignPhoto spot
  • About 4,300 glass models of real plants, made by two Czech glass artists between 1886 and 1936. Every petal and root is exact.

    Daily 9–5

    FlowersDesign
  • Acorn Street & Beacon HillFree

    Cobblestones, gas lamps and wreaths on every door. Go at blue hour, when the lamps glow, or right after sunrise to have it to yourselves.

    Blue hour 4:15–4:45 pm

    Photo spotHoliday lightsFree
  • Mon Nov 30, 5–6 pm, with choirs. It doubles as the grand reopening of the renovated square, in front of Trinity Church.

    Mon Nov 30, 5 pm

    Holiday lightsTreesFree
  • Thu Dec 3, 6–8 pm. The big tree is Nova Scotia’s yearly thank-you gift. At about 8:15 the Commonwealth Avenue Mall trees light up too.

    Thu Dec 3, 6 pm

    Holiday lightsTreesFree
  • A barrel-vaulted reading room with green lamps, John Singer Sargent murals and an arcaded courtyard. Free, and a designer’s favorite.

    Mon–Thu 9–8, Fri–Sat 9–5, Sun 11–5

    DesignPhoto spotFree
  • One of the great Asian art collections outside Asia, including pieces from Myanmar, plus textiles and fashion. Open late on Thursdays.

    10–5, Thu–Fri to 10 · closed Tue

    Design
  • Opening night is Thu Dec 3 at Symphony Hall, with cabaret tables and champagne. The classic Boston night to dress up for.

    Dec 3–28

    Dress upHoliday lights
  • North End

    Boston’s Little Italy: lobster rolls at Neptune, cannoli at Modern Pastry, espresso at Caffè Vittoria under tin ceilings.

    Evenings

    LobsterPhoto spot
The Breakers, the Vanderbilts’ 70-room “cottage” in Newport
The Breakers, the Vanderbilts’ 70-room “cottage” in Newport
Sunset over Bailey’s Beach from the Cliff Walk
Sunset over Bailey’s Beach from the Cliff Walk
The Cliff Walk path at sunset, mansions on the bluff
The Cliff Walk path at sunset, mansions on the bluff

Newport, RI

Gilded Age mansions dressed for the holidays, above the Atlantic.

Early Dec: 47° / 33°F · sunset 4:15 pm

Plan C only. The Breakers and Marble House are decorated for “Holidays at the Newport Mansions” (Nov 21, 2026 to Jan 3, 2027): rooms full of greenery, trees and flowers. The 3.5-mile Cliff Walk runs along the ocean behind the mansions. Dinner is a six-course tasting at Castle Hill Inn, with a lighthouse on the lawn.

  • The Vanderbilts’ 70-room summer “cottage,” dressed in holiday greenery and trees. Evening “Sparkling Lights” runs on select nights.

    Mon–Wed 9–5 · Thu–Sun 9–3 (Nov 21–Jan 3)

    FlowersDesignHoliday lightsPhoto spot
  • A gold ballroom and Chinese tea house, decorated for the season.

    Daily 9–5

    DesignPhoto spot
  • Cliff Walk at sunsetFree

    An ocean path past the mansions’ back lawns. Walk from Forty Steps to The Breakers in about 20 minutes.

    Sunset about 4:15 pm

    Photo spotOutdoorsFree
Cape Neddick Lighthouse is a lighthouse in Cape Neddick, York, Maine.
Cape Neddick Lighthouse is a lighthouse in Cape Neddick, York, Maine.
Nubble Light at dusk, York, Maine
Nubble Light at dusk, York, Maine
View of the Perkins Cove peninsula from the Marginal Way
View of the Perkins Cove peninsula from the Marginal Way

York & Ogunquit, ME

Maine’s first lighthouse stop, and a cliff walk to a fishing cove.

Early Dec: 42° / 30°F

On the way up to Kennebunkport. Nubble Light stays outlined in white lights from its lighting ceremony on Nov 28 into January, a famous holiday photo. Ogunquit’s Marginal Way follows the rocks for 1.25 miles to Perkins Cove.

  • Nubble Lighthouse (Sohier Park)Free

    The lighthouse on its own little island, outlined in holiday lights. Free parking at the point.

    Lit at dusk through early January

    Photo spotHoliday lightsFree
  • Marginal WayFree

    A paved cliff path from Ogunquit village to Perkins Cove. About 40 minutes one way.

    Photo spotOutdoorsFree
  • A bakery in Ogunquit village for a coffee and pastry stop.

    Sun–Thu 6:30–2, Fri–Sat to 5

Shops around Dock Square, the heart of Kennebunkport
Shops around Dock Square, the heart of Kennebunkport
Goat Island Light off Cape Porpoise
Goat Island Light off Cape Porpoise
Dock Square - DPLA - 08f5b9f0da71aa128699c3dfeb80ccc9
Dock Square - DPLA - 08f5b9f0da71aa128699c3dfeb80ccc9

Kennebunkport, ME

A harbor village during its Christmas Prelude.

Early Dec: 42° / 32°F · sunset 4:07 pm

The Christmas Prelude runs Dec 3–13, 2026. Friday Dec 4 is the big night: carols, then the Dock Square tree lighting at 6, then the Cape Porpoise lobster-trap tree lighting at 7. Gray-shingled shops, wreaths and lit boats make the whole village a photo set.

  • Caroling at 5:30, then the tree lights at 6 pm in the middle of the village.

    Fri Dec 4, 5:30 pm

    Holiday lightsTreesPhoto spotFree
  • A tree built from lobster traps and buoys, lit at the fishing pier with carols and refreshments.

    Fri Dec 4, 7 pm

    Holiday lightsPhoto spotLobsterFree
  • Ocean Avenue & Walker’s PointFree

    A coastal drive past the Bush family compound to Cape Arundel’s rocks. Best at sunset.

    Photo spotOutdoorsFree
  • The Prelude’s silly-hat parade through Dock Square, if you linger Saturday.

    Sat Dec 5, 3 pm

    Free
  • A Parisian café with crêpes and a rainbow case of macarons in Kennebunk’s Lower Village.

    Daily 7–4

    Photo spot
Portland Head Light on the rocks of Cape Elizabeth
Portland Head Light on the rocks of Cape Elizabeth
I will add another to the encyclopedic mass of photos of this light house.
I will add another to the encyclopedic mass of photos of this light house.
Portland Head Light on a calm winter day
Portland Head Light on a calm winter day

Portland, ME

Maine’s food city, with its most famous lighthouse next door.

Early Dec: 42° / 27°F · sunset 4:05 pm

Cobblestone Old Port lanes full of restaurants and shops, a working waterfront, and Portland Head Light (1791) 15 minutes away on Cape Elizabeth. Lobster is on every menu here all year, even after the shacks close.

  • Maine’s most photographed lighthouse, on the rocks. The park is open daily, sunrise to sunset.

    Photo spotOutdoorsFree
  • Old PortFree

    Brick warehouses, holiday windows and shops. Wharf Street’s cobbles are the prettiest block.

    Photo spotHoliday lightsFree
  • A brown-butter lobster roll on a steamed bun. James Beard–winning chefs.

    Daily 11–11

    Lobster
  • Lobster rolls and the famous “lobby pop” (lobster on a stick), open year-round.

    Daily 11–10

    Lobster
  • Morning buns and croissants on the waterfront.

    Daily 7:30–5

Lit trees reflected in a pond at Gardens Aglow, Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens
Lit trees reflected in a pond at Gardens Aglow, Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens
Trees wrapped in blue and white lights at Gardens Aglow
Trees wrapped in blue and white lights at Gardens Aglow
Columns of colored lights through the woods at Gardens Aglow
Columns of colored lights through the woods at Gardens Aglow

Boothbay, ME

Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, glowing.

Early Dec: 40° / 26°F

In winter the 300-acre botanical garden becomes “Gardens Aglow,” with lit trees reflected in ponds and glowing gardens through the woods. It runs Nov 14, 2026 to Jan 2, 2027, Thursday to Sunday. Go right at the 4 pm opening, when there is still blue in the sky.

  • Gardens Aglow$28 ($20–28 by date)

    Lights through the gardens, a café, and fire pits. Timed tickets.

    Thu–Sun + select dates, 4–9 pm

    Holiday lightsFlowersTreesPhoto spot
  • A cozy brick room with an upstairs fireplace. Lobster cakes and Pemaquid oysters, 20 minutes from the gardens.

    Mon–Sat from 4 (closed Sun)

    Lobster
A bend in the Kancamagus Highway through the White Mountains
A bend in the Kancamagus Highway through the White Mountains
Ballroom, Mount Washington Hotel, Bretton Woods, NH
Ballroom, Mount Washington Hotel, Bretton Woods, NH
Conference Room, Mount Washington Hotel, Bretton Woods, NH
Conference Room, Mount Washington Hotel, Bretton Woods, NH

White Mountains, NH

Snowy spruce, a white grand hotel and Mount Washington.

Early Dec: 35° / 21°F · snow on about 1 day in 3

This is where “the trees” are in December: forests of spruce and fir, often frosted with snow, through Crawford Notch and along the Kancamagus Highway. The 1902 Omni Mount Washington is a white palace with its Great Hall tree already lit. Jackson is a covered-bridge village with cozy inns, and a CCC log cabin with a wood stove looks straight at Mount Washington.

  • The Great Hall’s Christmas tree, a veranda facing Mount Washington, and the 1902 dining room. Even if you don’t stay, come for a drink.

    Dress upHoliday lightsDesignPhoto spot
  • Kancamagus HighwayFree

    34 miles of spruce forest and overlooks with no towns. Open in winter, but there is no gas or food on the way.

    Daylight; check snow

    TreesPhoto spotOutdoorsFree
  • Crawford NotchFree

    A steep pass on Route 302 with frozen waterfalls and snowy cliffs.

    TreesPhoto spotOutdoorsFree
  • Jackson covered bridgeFree

    A red 1876 covered bridge at the entrance to Jackson village.

    Photo spotFree
  • A holiday pop-up bar covered in lights, with fire pits and gingerbread s’mores (Nov 27–Dec 31). Kitschy and fun.

    Holiday lightsCozyPhoto spot
Pine woods along the Quechee Gorge trail
Pine woods along the Quechee Gorge trail
An 1823 brick house on the Woodstock Green
An 1823 brick house on the Woodstock Green
Quechee, Vermont
Quechee, Vermont

Quechee & Woodstock, VT

Glassblowers over a waterfall, on the way home.

Early Dec: 38° / 25°F

This is the birthday lunch stop on Sue’s birthday drive home. At Simon Pearce’s mill in Quechee you can watch glassblowers at the furnace, then eat lunch above the river falls off their own glass and pottery. Quechee Gorge, 165 feet deep, is two minutes away.

  • Free viewing of artisans blowing glass in a restored mill. A design-lover’s stop.

    Mon–Tue 10–4 · Wed–Fri 10–6 · Sat–Sun 10–2

    DesignPhoto spotFree
  • Quechee GorgeFree

    Look down 165 feet from the Route 4 bridge sidewalk.

    Photo spotFree
  • Woodstock GreenFree

    One of New England’s prettiest village greens, 15 minutes west, with a covered bridge.

    Photo spotFree
Oneida Lake shoreline at Verona Beach, a few miles from Verona
Oneida Lake shoreline at Verona Beach, a few miles from Verona

Verona & Utica, NY

Where Sue lives, and where the trip starts and ends.

Early Dec: 38° / 25°F

Brian drives up from Willow Grove (about 4¼ hours) and picks Sue up. On the last night her birthday dinner is at Turning Stone, minutes from home. Utica has one of the biggest Burmese communities in the country, so stock up on snacks for the car before you leave.

  • Forbes Four-Star dining room for Sue’s birthday dinner. Open Monday nights.

    Dinner Mon–Tue 5–10, Fri–Sat 5–11

    Dress upBirthday
  • The biggest Burmese-run market in Utica. Fresh Burmese vegetables come in on Fridays. Good for road-trip snacks.

    Daily, about 8:30–7

    Burmese
  • A long-running South Street Burmese grocery with noodles, spices and snacks.

    Daily 9–8

    Burmese

Pack for it

  • A warm coat, hat, gloves and scarf: highs of 35–47°F, lows of 20–33°F
  • Boots with grip, plus cheap microspikes for icy lighthouse paths and the cabin hike
  • Two or three dress-up outfits and a coat that looks good over them
  • Camera, spare batteries (the cold drains them fast) and a small tripod for blue hour
  • E-ZPass, a scraper and brush, and washer fluid rated for below zero
  • For cabin nights: sleeping bags rated to 15°F or lower, pads, headlamps, a small cook kit, a cooler and water
  • A phone power bank and offline maps (no signal on the Kancamagus)

Good to know

  • Book now: Contessa, Ostra and Twelve book up for December, and Gardner and Gardens Aglow use timed tickets. The Black Mountain cabin needs 4 days’ notice and sells out on weekends.
  • Hotel prices are Google Hotels’ lowest rate with fees, before tax, as seen Oct 10. Some are for a nearby sample night, as noted on each card. They change daily. City parking and some resort fees are extra (listed on each card).
  • Most lobster shacks close in October (The Clam Shack, Barnacle Billy’s, Red’s Eats, the Lobster Shack at Two Lights). Every lobster stop here is open year-round.
  • Closed days: Gardner and MFA on Tuesdays, Shwe on Mondays, the Old Inn on Mon–Tue, Leeward on Sun–Mon, Twelve on Mondays, and Simon Pearce has no dinner on Monday (lunch is daily).
  • The White Mountains get snow about 1 day in 3 in early December. Winter tires or AWD help. The Kancamagus has no gas or food for 34 miles, and the Mount Washington Auto Road is closed for the season.
  • Acadia National Park allows no camping in winter and closes its Park Loop Road on Dec 1, which is why Bar Harbor isn’t in these plans.
  • Day 1 is the longest day for Brian (about 6¾ hours of driving plus stops). To make it easier, drive to Verona on Saturday night.
  • Drive times are typical without traffic. Leaving Boston after 3 pm adds 30–60 minutes.
  • Costs leave out Brian’s drive home on Dec 8 and the Monday night at Turning Stone.

Sources

Photos: Wikimedia Commons and Openverse, credited in each photo and on the credits page.

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